Beautiful Sydney |
Sydney! Where as Melbourne feels like Seattle, Sydney has more of a combination San Francisco/New York vibe to it. It’s a bigger
city, more densely populated and perhaps a little less immediately charming,
but it’s also quirky, modern, hip and fashionable.
We started the day having some tragically mediocre coffee
at, of all places, Starbucks. This was to take advantage of their wifi, which
required purchase to use. Right before we left Melbourne my phone began
randomly rebooting and refusing to remain on for more than a few minutes at a
time. If you know me, you know that I am irrevocably tied to my technology. I
need information constantly, and having my phone out of commission when there
was tons of things I wanted to research was…an adjustment.
The first thing we needed to do was rejoin with our third party
member, who instead of staying in our seedy hotel, decided to bunk with some
old friends of his wife who lived in the area. Oscar and I walked the mile to
their apartment and met the friend, Baron, a gracious host who, it turns out,
is a bit of an expert on the city of Sydney and all there is to do in it. He
provided us all with printouts of things to do each day we were there,
restaurant recommendations and tips on navigating the city. Baron, if you read
this, your help was absolutely invaluable and we were all singing your praises
through the whole Sydney excursion. Thanks a bunch.
View from Baron's Apartment...yeah. |
The other perk of meeting Baron was his *amazing* apartment,
which is in one of the tallest residential buildings in the downtown Sydney
area and has a spectacular view of Sydney bay, the opera house, the harbor and
just about everything else worth looking at in the immediate downtown area. I
took several skyline shots and promised to return later to take some night
shots.
Sydney is known for its beaches, particularly Bondi Beach,
but according to Baron, the locals take the ferry to an area amusingly called
Manly beach, and that was where we were headed that day. To reach it, we took
the Manly ferry (an equally amusing juxtaposition) which is a great way to see
the waterfront features of Sydney harbor, including the Harbour Bridge and the ubiquitous
Sydney Opera House, which I will talk more about later.
North Head |
We also got a very nice drive by of four of the Sydney
Heads, the rocky headlands that define the edge of the bay. They are striking sandstone
features which also house a quarantine station, a defunct defensive facility, the
Australian institute of Police Management, and Australia’s third oldest
lighthouse, Hornby Lighthouse.
Manly itself is a nice little beach town. It was named by
Captain Arthur Philip, first governor of New South Wales, because the indigenous
people living there at the time of British settlement struck him with “their confidence
and manly behavior…” Now every other store in the town is “Manly pasta” and “Manly
chippery” and “Manly women’s beachwear,” ad nauseum.
I "Chu"se you, duck summer rolls! |
It was about lunch time and Baron had recommended a restaurant
called Misschu, a local chain of Vietnamese/Laotian/Thai tuckshops specializing
in small plates. The founder is Misschu, Nahji Chu, is a filmmaker, animator (!),
and now restaurant mogul. We had a variety of dishes, particularly good were
the chilled rice paper rolls.
Shelly Beach, artfully presented |
After lunch we walked along the Manly Corso to Manly beach.
The beach is small, beautiful and crowded. Oscar decided to go for an immediate
swim, but neither I nor Justin were prepared for that (and in my case didn’t
particularly care to). After watching Oscar suffer gleefully for a few minutes
in the frigid Pacific, we followed a walkway along the beach line to a rocky alcove
called Shelly beach, which featured less surfers and more snorkelers. The water
was crystal clear. It would have been a nice place to swim, I’m sure. We also
spotted some of the native fauna, the eastern water dragon (Intellagama lesueurii
lesueurii), which is a lizard (sub) species that lives along the NSW beaches. They
look similar to iguanas with more interesting striation patterns.
After several manly hours at Manly beach, we returned via Manly
ferry to Sydney proper, where we spent some time admiring the most recognizable
man-made feature in Australia, The Sydney Opera House. Sydney Opera house is a
UNESCO World Heritage site, only one of two in Australia, the second being the Royal
Exhibition Building in Melbourne (which I also visited, see Melbourne
Week 3).
Slightly overcooked HDR shot of Sydney Opera House |
I dug up an article containing 40 interesting facts about
the Sydney Opera House (right
here.) I’ll transcribe a few here. Jorn Utzon, the architect who designed
it, was rejected by three of the four judges for the competition to design the
building, but the last judge, an American, deemed it “outstanding” and eventually
swayed the other judges to his opinion. It cost AUD $102 million to make, and
the initial estimate for its construction was AUD $ 7 million.) It is the
equivalent of 22 stories tall and contains 1000 rooms. It is in the style of
Expressionist Modernism and once a chicken flew into the hall during a
performance and landed on a cellist.
Probably for the best that there were not actual birds in those cages... |
We walked around the exterior of the building, which houses
4+ restaurants and a bar, took a bunch of photos and remarked that it looked
smaller in life than it ever seemed to in the pictures of Sydney. We then
walked to an area called The Rocks, which I will get into more detail about in
a few paragraphs, but we hung out at a busy German bierhall called Lowenbrau
where we drank large beers and ate many calories worth of schnitzel and
bratwurst. They had an apricot schnapps there that I have been unable to find
outside of Germany called Marillen (just the German word for ‘apricot’) and we
enjoyed a few sips of that to end the meal. The sun had set and we were pretty
tired, so we walked back to the hotel through the downtown area. There was plenty to see at every turn downtown, but one notable discovery was an alleyway Chinese restaurant who decorated their outdoor area with an array of decorative birdcages. I thought it looked cool, so pictures. Finally we returned to
our hotel for some much needed rest.
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